Mud crabs [Photo by Gao Erqiang/Shanghai Star]

MUD CRABS

These hard-shelled crabs from the salt-water estuaries area are at their fattest now, and the females are chockful of golden roe.

They can be simply steamed and dipped into melted butter, or they can be stir-fried in a pepper or chili sauce, Singaporean-style.

In season, the crabs are all good. Just make sure that they are bright-eyed and belligerent when you handle them.

Dead crabs should not be eaten at all.