Artists' melon carving works.[Photo provided To China Daily]

"We are not so much food makers as food artists," Cao says. "To reach the highest state of unity of myself and culinary art is a life venture," Cao adds.

In an era when computer programs have been developed to carve ice digitally, Hernes is eager to keep the hand-carving tradition alive - by passing his art to a new generation. Mark Wilson has practiced the craft with his father for 13 years.

"I was excited to come back to the Kempinski in Beijing last year after being away for eight years," he says, "with one condition: I wanted to bring my son with me.

"Plus, the ice is very heavy and I needed Mark's help," he says with another cheerful grin.